To Kumano, the land of resurrection. Walk, eat, pray, sleep...Let's meet a new self on Kumano Kodo Iseji. Part 2

First part synopsis

IseJingu Iseji is a road that connects two sacred places, Ise Jingu and Kumano Sanzan, with a total length of approximately 170 km.

This article is linked to a YouTube video summarizing the second part of the two-day Kumano Kodo Iseji route.

This time as well, I will be one of the travelers walking this trail, along with myself, Yuriko Tamaoki, who is a writer and guide, and Mayumi Yamashita of the YouTube channel ``Adult Girls' Mountain Climbing.'' I would like to explore its essence and charm!

The first part of the article and YouTube video summarizing the first day can be viewed by clicking on the button below, so check it out and then watch the second part of the article and YouTube video to discover more about the charm of Kumano Kodo Iseji Route. can do.

``Matsumoto Pass'' has impressive cobblestone pavement made of natural stones.

Let's continue our journey on the Kumano Kodo Iseji route on the second day!

After leaving the inn on Nigishima and passing Nikishima Pass, Oukamizaka Pass, Hadasu Road, and Obuki Pass, you will find `` Matsumoto Pass”.

There are some very beautiful stone pavements left at Matsumoto Pass.

The highlight is the Nozuraran Sozumi stone pavement, which is made by stacking natural stones as they are.

As soon as you enter the entrance to Matsumoto Pass, you will immediately see an impressive stone-paved road.

In this area, there are many stones called Kumano acid rocks that were created by volcanic activity about 15 million years ago, and these stones were used to create stone pavements.

The view of the endless moss-covered cobblestone streets is truly a sight to behold.

At the top of Matsumoto Pass, there is a beautiful bamboo forest with sunlight filtering through the trees, and a Jizo statue stands there.

This Jizo statue has traces of being shot with a gun. It is said that during the Edo period, on the day the Jizo statue was erected, a hunter who passed by this place in the middle of the night mistook it for a monster and shot it.

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To the observation deck overlooking the wide coastal road

Now, let's deviate a little from Kumano Kodo and walk along the seaside route with a nice view.

From the top of Matsumoto Pass, follow the signpost that says `` Onigajo Castle Ruins'' and proceed to the left.

After walking along the mountain path for a while, you will see an observation deck with a beautiful view!

From this observation deck, you can see a panoramic view of the coastline called Shichirimihama.

As its name suggests, Shichirimihama is the longest gravel beach in Japan, stretching for approximately 22km.

Shichirimihama is also part of the Hamakaido route of the Kumano Kodo. Travelers from the Edo period who walked along the Hamakaido Road headed for Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine, walking on the gravel of the coast beyond Matsumoto Pass.

For travelers who have walked deep in the mountains, this is a turning point. The moment you saw the vast expanse of the ocean must have been very moving.

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Onigajo, amazed by the beauty of nature

If you go down past the observatory overlooking the ocean, you will arrive at Onigajo, another world heritage site in this area.

Onigajo faces the Kumano Sea and has a landscape of strangely shaped rocks and stones for about 1km.

Tuff, which is made up of hardened ash accumulated during volcanic activity about 15 million years ago, has been carved away by waves over many years, resulting in this very mysterious shape.

There is a promenade around Onigajo, and you can enjoy a walk along Matsumoto Pass.

In Kumano, there are many places where you can see these huge rocks and the mysterious beauty of nature.

For the old travelers who walked all the way here, it might have felt like a completely different world.

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At the entrance to the Onigajo promenade, there is a facility called Onigajo Center, where you can not only purchase souvenirs from the area, but also eat at the restaurant.

The recommended dish is the Kumanonada sea bream and tuna red and white bowl (1,100 yen including tax, miso soup and pickles included).

The Kumano Sea has deep water even if it is relatively close to the coast, so you can catch a lot of delicious fish that normally only live offshore far from the coast.

Let's enjoy the blessings of the Kuroshio Current and the earth, and recharge our energy to continue our journey with energy!

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Another world heritage site, Shishiiwa

There are many spots along the Kumano Kodo near here that are designated as World Heritage Sites. This "Shishiiwa" is one of them.

Like Onigajo, it was created by the rock being carved away by the waves.

It is approximately 25m in size and looks like a large lion roaring towards the sky. It is said to be the guardian dog of Oma Shrine, which is located upstream of the Ido River that flows nearby.

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Hananoiwaya-jinjaShrine dedicated to Izanami no Mikoto

After crossing Shishiiwa and walking along the coast for a while, you will see Hana-no-Iwaya Iwaya Shrine, which is said to be the oldest shrine in Japan.

As you pass through the torii gate and proceed deeper into the precincts, you will find a huge rock wall approximately 45m high.

It is made of the same tuff as Onigajo, and the white-looking quay has many holes caused by weathering, giving it a very mysterious and impressive appearance.

This huge rock is the object of worship, with Izanami no Mikoto, the mother of the gods, and Kagutsuchinomikoto, the god of fire, on the opposite 18m high rock. It is enshrined.

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Walking on the beach at Shichirimihama, Kumano Kodo

From Hananoiwaya-jinjaShrine, follow the footsteps of Edo period travelers and walk along ShichiriMihamaBeach.

Starting from Hananoiwaya-jinjaShrine, the Kumano Kodo Iseji route is divided into the Hongu-do road, which runs along the mountain side, and the Hamakaido road, which runs along the coast.

The coast of Shichirimihama is characterized by being filled with large grains of gravel.

When you actually walk on the gravel, your feet get caught and it's quite difficult! I'm impressed by how strong the Edo period travelers must have been to walk over 20km on this road.

The water surface sparkles as it reflects the sunlight.

Kumano is a place where the belief of ``Fudaraku Tokai'' (Fudaraku Tokai) was popular, and it was believed that there was a paradise beyond this endless sea.

Travelers in the past may have imagined a different world beyond the sea while walking this path.

HaneCafe, a cafe where you can relax while looking at the ocean

After walking through Matsumoto Pass, Onigajo, and the Kumano Kodo along the coast, I felt a bit thirsty.

At times like these, a recommended spot to take a break is HaneCafe, a cafe where you can relax while looking out at the ocean.

Located right in front of the sea of Shichirimihama, you can enjoy a rich menu of snacks, lunches, sweets, and drinks both inside the restaurant and on the open terrace.

We recommend the tangerine juice from Kumano and the fluffy pancakes topped with plenty of cream!

The pancakes are made with locally produced free-range fertilized eggs called Asoboran.

When you take a bite, it has a very light texture! You can feel the flavor and richness of eggs, and you can eat as many pieces as you like.

If you're feeling hungry after walking a lot, why not stop by?

You can fully enjoy the delicious charm of Kumano.

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River Kumano Kodo/Kumano River boat ride

Now, once you've filled your stomach with sweets made with delicious local ingredients, you're almost at your goal. As you walk along the coastal road, you will see the Kumano River.

In the past, aristocrats visiting the Kumano Sanzan would take a boat from Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine down the Kumano River to Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine.

For this reason, the Kumano River is also a road that connects the Kumano Sanzan, and is also registered as a World Heritage Site.

Even today, you can take a boat downriver from Kitahinotsu KihoTown, to Gongen Kawara, which is right near Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine.

The boat is equipped with sails called sandanbo, which allow the boat to move forward using the power of the wind.

A boat gliding smoothly on the river. Traveling on the water while feeling the breeze is very comfortable.

For those who have traveled long distances on foot, riding on this riverboat must have been a time to take a breather.

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Finally, the end of the journey. To Kumano Hayatama Taisha

Once you get off the boat, your goal, Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine, is almost there.

As I walked down the approach, a large red torii gate appeared in front of me.

This is Kumano Hayatama Taisha, the goal of this trip.

It is one of the three Kumano shrines, along with Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha, and is mainly dedicated to the couple deities of Kumano Hayatama Okami and Kumano Fusumi Okami. It is an old shrine with a beautiful vermilion-painted shrine that has been in existence for nearly 1900 years.

Kumano Sanzan, which has been visited by many people since ancient times, is also called the `` Sacred Place of Resurrection.''

The deep mountains of the Kii Mountains and the wide, blue Kumano Sea.

The nature of the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route impresses us with its beauty, but at the same time teaches us its harshness.

By walking in such nature, unnecessary things may be removed from people's minds, and they may be able to face themselves more and more simply.

When you finally reach the sacred place and put your hands together in front of God, your body and mind will feel lighter, and you will feel as if you have been truly reborn.

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How was that?

This time, as we walk along the Kumano Kodo Iseji Route, we wonder what a modern pilgrimage is like. What changes does walking make? I have clarified this question.

In the first part of the trip, we started at IseJingu, walked, ate, prayed, and slept.

I discovered a new version of myself through encounters with beautiful scenery, delicious food, and the warmth of people.

In the second part of the journey, beyond the deep mountains of the Kii Peninsula, you will be surrounded by the open seascape of Kumano.

I felt as if I had come back to life as I came into contact with the deep and mysterious beauty of nature, the beliefs of the people who were born there, and the activities of history.

Modern pilgrimages may be a precious time to face oneself through nature and people, and be reborn as a new self.

Why not visit Kumano Kodo Iseji to meet your new self?

Click here for a map summarizing the spots visited in the second part ↓

Ms. Yamashita's YouTube channel "Mountain Climbing for Adult Girls" Click here for the video linked to this article

[Kumano Kodo ②] Matsumoto Pass where you can feel the history, visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine while visiting the World Heritage Site [World Heritage Site] Day 2