Looking Way Up at Hana no Iwaya, Japan’s Oldest Shrine which appears in mythology

Written by Vern Begg 
About the Author: 
I believe travel is an opportunity to feed your soul and I will never stop exploring our amazing planet. Originally from Canada, I now live in Osaka with my family and have learned that Japan is an incredible place for discovering new experiences. 

As most people are aware, Japan is home to innumerable shrines and temples with historical and religious significance. The first time I visited Japan about 15 years ago, I enjoyed visiting places of prayer to see how tradition and belief has continued to be a central force in the culture for over 1000 years. 

Since I started living here, I usually only visit temples and shrines when my friends and family visit from overseas. However, when I learned about Hana no Iwaya Shrine and that it was believed  to be the oldest shrine in all of Japan, I decided to visit while I was in Kumano City. The shrine is written about in the “Nihon Shoki” (“Chronicles of Japan”), which is one of two books that together are considered by some to be a history of the country.

The Nihon Shoki says that Izanami-no-mikoto died from burns she suffered while giving birth to Kagu-tsuchi no-mikoto. She was later enshrined at Hana no Iwaya. At a bi-annual festival known as "Otsunakake Shinji", locals sing and dance with flowers, drums and whistles to worship the soul of Izanami . This celebration of the mother of the Japanese gods has been passed down through generations of worshippers for over 1,000 years.

Kumano City is located on the beautiful coastline of Mie Prefecture and is home to Shichiri-Mihama Beach, Japan’s longest gravel beach.  Hana no Iwaya Shrine is just across Japan National Route 42 from the beach and this proximity to the highway makes access very easy for people who are traveling by car. I arrived by train at Kumanoshi Station and it was a nice 15-minute walk from the station to the waterfront and the shrine.

Caption: Shichiri-Mihama is the longest gravel  beach in Japan.

As I approached Hana no Iwaya, I was enjoying my walk along the seawall as the fresh air was blowing in from the Pacific Ocean. It was a beautiful day and the ocean breeze combined with the sound of the waves on the beach put me in a relaxed state of mind on my way to the shrine. Thinking that I must be getting close, I looked to my right across the road and the humongous rock that is Hana no Iwaya was right there towering above the tree line.

Caption: The sea wall and beach is across the road from Hana no Iwaya.

Caption: Hana no Iwaya is very impressive when you first see it.

At the next set of traffic lights, I crossed the road and headed to the entrance. There were some cars in the parking lot near the entrance, but it wasn’t too busy on the day I visited the shrine. I made my way through the first stone torii gate and started walking down the path that was flanked on both sides with amazing old growth trees.

Caption: Visitors to Hana no Iwaya enter onto a path surrounded by ancient trees.

The long path was also lined with blue vertical flags when I visited and the atmosphere was very calm with a light sea breeze in the air. Before reaching the buildings of the shrine complex,  there was a side path that passed under a long stretch of wooden torii gates that were painted bright red-orange. It was an intriguing sight and a great spot to take some photos.

Caption: A side pathway featured brightly painted torii gates.

Just before the shrine itself, visitors can complete the Shinto purification ritual at a water station with an ornate dragon’s head and green bamboo pipes. After that, you pass through the entrance building where you can purchase prayer tokens and other items. A large stone lion statue with eyes and fangs that had been painted a vivid shade of white guarded the entrance. In fact, the entire entrance space and all of the buildings were beautiful and immaculate. Hana no Iwaya is clearly a place of great importance for many Japanese visitors.

Caption: The immaculate shrine complex at the base of Hana no Iwaya.

After passing through the official entrance, I came to another torii and a low stacked-stone wall that was the area where you could approach Hana no Iwaya. As I entered the enclosed space, t giant rock face filled my line of sight and I started to look way up to see the top encased in a blue sky. It was a lovely spot and I was humbled by the immensity of the rock. 

Caption: The area at the base of the rock is enclosed within a low wall of stacked stones.

Caption: Twice a year, worshippers connect a 170-meter rope from the top of the rock to an ancient tree.

Looking up at what may be the longest rope in all Japan according to some people, I hoped that I could observe the traditions of the Otsunakake Shinji in person someday. There were two prayer spots at the base of Hana no Iwaya and some visitors were making offerings and praying. The small area at the base was surrounded by dense plant life that created the feeling of being in a room carved out of nature.

I stood in the center of the space for about 10 minutes and looked up at the rock that worshippers have been making the pilgrimage to for over 1300 years. The whole scene reminded me how short each individual’s time on earth truly is and how the natural world perseveres long after we’re gone.

Caption: A small shrine is located at the base of the rock for worshippers to pray and make offerings.

Caption: The base area has a calm and relaxing atmosphere for visitors and worshippers.

I left Hana no Iwaya feeling calm and ready to continue exploring the history and culture of this ancient country. Before heading to my next destination, however, I stopped in the gift shop on the way out and picked up some locally made citrus hard candies to stuff in my bag for later. 

Caption: After my visit to Hana no Iwaya, I enjoyed the ocean view and fresh air of Kumano City.

I crossed over the road back to the beach side and took a deep breath of the fresh air as Hana no Iwaya continued to look out over the trees to the wide-open ocean. As I looked at the beach stretching off into the distance, I felt ready for my next great Japanese experience. 

For more info about Hana no Iwaya Shrine